三九養(yǎng)生堂記者 鄧肯·蓋伊 報道
精彩| 北??(bei)京??(jing)自??(zi)古??(gu)是??(shi)多??(duo)元??(yuan)文??(wen)化??(hua)交??(jiao)融??(rong)的??(de)要??(yao)沖??(chong)??，游??(you)牧??(mu)民??(min)族??(zu)的??(de)飲??(yin)食??(shi)習(xí)??(xi)慣??(guan)與??(yu)中??(zhong)原?(yuan)節(jié)??(jie)日??(ri)交??(jiao)流??(liu)融??(rong)合??(he)??，形??(xing)成??(cheng)了??(le)北??(bei)京??(jing)人??(ren)重??(zhong)陽??(yang)節(jié)??(jie)登??(deng)高?(gao)吃??(chi)烤??(kao)肉??(rou)的??(de)獨??(du)特??(te)節(jié)??(jie)俗?(su)??。??《燕??(yan)京??(jing)歲??(sui)時??(shi)記??(ji)》中??(zhong)??，京??(jing)師??(shi)流??(liu)行??(xing)九??(jiu)月??(yue)初??(chu)九??(jiu)到?(dao)西??(xi)山??(shan)、薊??(ji)門??(men)煙??(yan)樹??(shu)、陶??(tao)然??(ran)亭??(ting)等??(deng)風(fēng)?(feng)景??(jing)宜??(yi)人??(ren)的??(de)城??(cheng)郊??(jiao)烤??(kao)肉??(rou)并??(bing)賦??(fu)詩??(shi)飲??(yin)酒??(jiu)??。據(jù)??(ju)民??(min)國??(guo)親??(qin)歷?(li)者??(zhe)回??(hui)憶??(yi)??，烤??(kao)肉??(rou)需??(xu)要??(yao)攜??(xie)帶??(dai)專??(zhuan)門??(men)的??(de)鐵祝(tie)炙??(zhi)子??(zi)、肉??(rou)和??(he)佐??(zuo)料??(liao)??，游??(you)人??(ren)在??(zai)野??(ye)外??(wai)挖?(wa)坑??(keng)架??(jia)起??(qi)炙??(zhi)子??(zi)??，燃??(ran)料??(liao)就??(jiu)地??(di)取??(qu)材??(cai)??，多??(duo)是??(shi)撿??(jian)拾??(shi)來??(lai)的??(de)松??(song)枝??(zhi)松?(song)塔??(ta)??。待?(dai)松??(song)煙??(yan)彌?(mi)漫??(man)??，肉??(rou)香??(xiang)撲??(pu)鼻??(bi)之??(zhi)時??(shi)??，就??(jiu)著??(zhe)海??(hai)淀??(dian)名??(ming)酒??(jiu)“蓮??(lian)花??(hua)白?(bai)”割??(ge)腥??(xing)啖??(dan)膻??(shan)??，起??(qi)身?(shen)游?(you)目??(mu)騁??(cheng)懷??(huai)??，看??(kan)蘆??(lu)花??(hua)滿??(man)塘??(tang)、鴉??(ya)棲??(qi)老??(lao)樹??(shu)??，又??(you)能?(neng)登??(deng)臨??(lin)送??(song)目??(mu)??，懷??(huai)古??(gu)憑??(ping)吊??(diao)??，誠??(cheng)為??(wei)重?(zhong)陽??(yang)之?(zhi)快?(kuai)事??(shi)???！ ∈??(shu)菜??(cai)表??(biao)面??(mian)如??(ru)能??(neng)適??(shi)時??(shi)適??(shi)量??(liang)結(jié)??(jie)霜??(shuang)??，就??(jiu)可??(ke)借??(jie)自??(zi)然??(ran)之??(zhi)力??(li)提??(ti)煉??(lian)出??(chu)植?(zhi)株??(zhu)內(nèi)??(nei)的??(de)糖??(tang)分??(fen)??，形?(xing)成??(cheng)霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)時?(shi)節(jié)??(jie)特??(te)有??(you)的??(de)美??(mei)味??(wei)??。??其??(qi)原??(yuan)理?(li)在??(zai)于??(yu)??，植?(zhi)株??(zhu)在??(zai)氣??(qi)溫??(wen)驟??(zhou)降??(jiang)時??(shi)會??(hui)開??(kai)啟??(qi)“防?(fang)凍??(dong)保??(bao)護??(hu)模??(mo)式??(shi)”??，將??(jiang)體?(ti)內(nèi)??(nei)淀??(dian)粉??(fen)轉(zhuǎn)??(zhuan)化??(hua)為??(wei)糖??(tang)分??(fen)??，使??(shi)蔬??(shu)菜??(cai)味??(wei)道??(dao)變??(bian)得??(de)更??(geng)加??(jia)清??(qing)甜??(tian)可??(ke)口??(kou)??。古??(gu)人??(ren)早??(zao)就??(jiu)發(fā)??(fa)現(xiàn)??(xian)了??(le)霜??(shuang)打??(da)菜??(cai)的??(de)秘??(mi)密??(mi)??，農(nóng)?(nong)諺??(yan)有??(you)“霜??(shuang)打??(da)蔬??(shu)菜??(cai)分??(fen)外?(wai)甜??(tian)”的??(de)說??(shuo)法??(fa)??。北??(bei)方??(fang)地??(di)區(qū)??(qu)常??(chang)見??(jian)的??(de)“過?(guo)冬??(dong)菜??(cai)”大??(da)白??(bai)菜??(cai)尤??(you)得?(de)霜??(shuang)打??(da)之??(zhi)意??(yi)趣??(qu)??，經(jīng)??(jing)霜??(shuang)的??(de)白??(bai)菜??(cai)用??(yong)來??(lai)腌??(yan)漬??(zi)酸??(suan)菜??(cai)??，色??(se)澤??(ze)澄??(cheng)明??(ming)??，味??(wei)道?(dao)芳??(fang)甜??(tian)??，如??(ru)果??(guo)缺??(que)少??(shao)霜??(shuang)打??(da)的??(de)考??(kao)驗?(yan)??，漬??(zi)出??(chu)來??(lai)的??(de)酸??(suan)菜??(cai)不?(bu)但??(dan)鮮??(xian)美??(mei)不??(bu)及??(ji)??，后??(hou)味??(wei)也??(ye)總??(zong)嫌??(xian)苦??(ku)澀?(se)??。
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